November 29

Pan-roasted Duck with Persimmon & Turnip tops

‘How many are you cooking for?” It’s the question I dread, even from Struan my friendly butcher round the corner at Provenance. But at least I didn’t lie today. “It’s just me tonight.” As if that were unusual. But anyway, it wasn’t but I was feeling like cooking. For the last few weekends I’d been […]

July 26


It is just another day; one of 365 in every year and 2190 since he left. Every year I think this arbitrary date that is mentally ringed red in my mind might just slip past without me noticing. But in the weeks of ‘lasts’ running up to the anniversary of his death, memories and reminders […]

August 10


Gluts don’t have to mean gluttony. But for a singleton brought up in a Calvinistic home where the suggestion of throwing food away was usually converted into a needless conveyance of barely edible matter through the alimentary tract, I have a hell-fire terror of waste. At this time of year, when those luscious late summer […]

July 08


English cherries: Interlopers on the whole, encouraged here by a pre-UKIP Henry VIII who had enjoyed the sweeter fruit of Flanders and demanded that orchards be planted in Kent to satisfy his sweet tooth. For me, their immigration status is irrelevant. They are just one of my favourite drupes. A chopstick, a wine bottle (email […]

May 17

YoYo Biscuits with lime butter icing

Living on my own I try not to have too many treats in the house. I don’t know why I say that really other than buying biscuits and sweets for oneself seems self-indulgent. Much easier to buy if you can reasonably say to yourself, maybe X will enjoy these all the while knowing it’s you […]

May 12

Onion Jam, Mascarpone and Fennel Seed Tart

There was a lot of tarty talk on Twitter yesterday morning, kicked off by @lawyer_eats who was making a Roquefort flan from Simon Hopkinson’s Good Cook book. Chat about various recipes ensued and my imagination took the bait. So instead of having a light tomato salad as planned, found myself leafing through cook books looking for […]

April 22


Easter. One of those holidays I still find a little difficult. At least this year there was a decent gap between the lump-in-the-throat heart-pricks of Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day. My previous post highlighted my Valentine’s Day ritual (message me for a password). Mother’s Day I regard an exercise in fertility fetishism; annoying but ultimately […]

March 26


This is one of those recipes I almost didn’t blog. Why? Well, it includes an ingredient that for some reason seems a little embarrassing. A bit like scrolling through my albums in front of Ed the sound recordist the other day to find ‘Ethiopique – music of the 60’s and 70’s recorded on 2 tracks in […]

March 23


Recipes are a bit like friendships. There are those with whom we spend a lot of time and the oft resulting familiarity can occasionally breed contempt. When I was a child, mince was the dull old standby I longed to throw over for something more fashionable. My mum, ever on-trend, made Bolognaise a family favourite […]

Blogging or Blagging. Who gives a f*ck?

In the office of a very famous chef there is a framed cover of a Radio Times. It features a long dining table around which 13 chefs sit, all laughing and joking in their pristine whites. They sparkle as if they can’t quite believe that they, mere passionate craftsmen and dedicated cooks, have found themselves […]