Category Archives: Restaurants

May 12

Onion Jam, Mascarpone and Fennel Seed Tart

There was a lot of tarty talk on Twitter yesterday morning, kicked off by @lawyer_eats who was making a Roquefort flan from Simon Hopkinson’s Good Cook book. Chat about various recipes ensued and my imagination took the bait. So instead of having a light tomato salad as planned, found myself leafing through cook books looking for […]

Blogging or Blagging. Who gives a f*ck?

In the office of a very famous chef there is a framed cover of a Radio Times. It features a long dining table around which 13 chefs sit, all laughing and joking in their pristine whites. They sparkle as if they can’t quite believe that they, mere passionate craftsmen and dedicated cooks, have found themselves […]

February 23

GRILLED POLENTA WITH SHRIMP, LARDONS AND MUSHROOM BROTH

My lunch date was enviably pretty – and slim despite her successful career as a food writer and cook, so you may think I wouldn’t be predisposed to affection. However, on looking at the concise menu at The Lockhart – London’s latest paean to Southern cuisine – she posed a question that utterly bewitched me. […]

July 10

GRAIN STORE KINGS CROSS

It’s rare to find a restaurant that isn’t just blazing a trail but striking the match that will set the new path itself on fire. The kind of place that led one world-famous chef two nights ago to declare, ‘Why the fuck didn’t I think of this first!’ In the fast moving world of feeding […]

June 18

WILD HONEY REVIEW

I’ve been altogether too sociable to do justice to one of the initial aims of this blog, but for that I will not apologise. Deliberately shunning the company of others just to fulfil the parameters of a web diary would be akin to giving up a decent lover because you’d bought new batteries for the […]

May 05

CAN SALAD BE COMFORTING?

Two posts in one day!? I’m spoiling you, I know. But the one from earlier this morning, had languished in drafts for a week as I pondered the pros and cons of posting. It was a difficult decision but I’m glad I did…so far anyway. It left me feeling quite vulnerable and having spent the […]

BIRTHDAY BLUES

On my birthday when I was little, my staunchly Tory grandmother would place a warm, pillowy kiss on my forehead and with mock gravitas announce, ‘They march in Red Square to celebrate the day you were born you know!’ I think I believed her until I was about 8 years old. With all its odd […]

Valentine’s eve…

In all the 14th of Februaries that passed during our relationship, I’m not sure if my beloved and I ever spent one together. We were often separated by work or geography but I can’t say it ever bothered me. Like most of the people I hope are reading this, I have a healthy disdain for […]

January 26

GOODE & WRIGHT REVIEW/ LO CAL SALMON

I’m doing this stupid Fast Diet. It’s only stupid on actual fasting days. The rest of the time I’m borderline evangelical about it. For those of you who are ‘naturally thin’ (yeah, right) or have been under a weight-loss rock, the eating plan involves eating exactly what you like for 5 days a week and […]

November 29

ELECTRIC…OH HOW I’VE MISSED YOU…

My accountant wondered if the enormous figure next to the line in my spreadsheet marked ‘Electric’ indicated that I may have been making ends meet by growing marijuana. He knew the size of my house and it was the only reason my energy bills could be so high. That was until he looked at the […]